Seabrook Marina News

Fall and winter maintenance is never fun because it indicates that summer is over. However, fall and winter can bring some of the most beautiful days on the water that is not only enjoyable but perfect for boating activities. So don’t abandon your boat now that the weather is less than perfect.

There are several things you need to do to prepare your boat for the upcoming fall and winter seasons. Here are some tips to help make sure your boat is in tip-top shape for when you head out onto the water in the spring.

What do you need to do to get your boat ready for fall and winter?

Probably the first thing to consider is checking your boat's bottom hull for barnacles and the paint job with a Quick Haul. This means your boat will stay in the hoist and sling for cleaning and checking without a major expense of the boat standing in the boatyard.

Here is a list of things to check to get your boat ready.

1. FUEL SYSTEM CORROSION

Winter is a good time for your fuel system to be included in your regular inspection. Check the fuel system for corrosion and leaks around the fuel system causing corrosion. This is especially necessary for gasoline. Some less expensive fuel tank vent fittings are constructed of inferior material, lending to early corrosion and failure. Inspect the vent fittings as well as the vent hose and clamps. If the fitting is blistered or deteriorated in any way, remove it from the vessel for closer inspection, or replace it.

2. HULL & TOPSIDES

Winter is an excellent time to deal with the hull and topsides of your boat. Maintain the longevity of your color, whether gel coat or paint you need to wax and compound your hull to stave off the effects of oxidation, UV damage, and the harsh marine environment.

3. PROPS

The first thing to determine is whether your props need rehab or can you clean them yourself. This is a perfect off-season job.

If your props need rehab, make arrangements to have your props delivered back to you in early or mid-spring. This will save you time, plus you will be able to avoid last-minute problems, such as finding out that the prop is beyond rehab and needs to be replaced. Most marinas provide this service through other shops that service props full time. Check out our contractors for Seabrook Shipyard.
When you get them back they are usually painted and ready to go. Brass props are shiny and ready for installation.

If your props just need cleaning, apply several clear coats of antifouling. This will help reduce the growth of barnacles, both for freshwater boating as well as saltwater boating. Keeping your props free of foreign growth will keep your props operating at maximum performance.

Great a quite comprehensive checklist from Boat Planet:

These next steps should be handled by your mechanic as part of a comprehensive winterization service:

• Change the fuel filters and water separator
• Check the fuel line and bulb and replace if needed
• Change the oil; do not put this off until spring, as you need to eliminate residual acids and moisture in the system that can damage your engine if left unattended over the winter
• Replace the oil filter
• Fog the engine
• Replace the water impeller; this should be done at least once a year
• Flush the raw-water system, then fill with fresh antifreeze rated for your winter climate
• Freshwater cooling systems need to have their coolant level topped up
• Replace plugs
• Change transmission fluid, if applicable
• Check the wires and rotor cap
• Check the belts and adjust tension as needed
• Check the hoses for cracks, bulges, or soft spots and replace as needed
• Check the hose clamps for corrosion or wear and replace as needed
• Check the shift/throttle cables and tension, then lubricate the cables and linkage
• Check the sacrificial anodes and replace if more than 50 percent deteriorated
• Check the prop(s) for nicks and dents
• Grease the prop shaft and threads
• Remove the battery (top-up electrolyte level and recharge if necessary) and put on a marine trickle charger

Beyond the Engine

• After the engine work is done, it makes sense for the service shop to do the following checklist items while they are in the boat:
• Flush the bilge and add antifreeze
• Fill the freshwater system and hot water heater with non-toxic propylene glycol antifreeze
• Disconnect the hot-water heater
• Pump out the holding tank and add antifreeze to the head
• Spray down the electronics connectors with an anti-corrosion lubricant, especially where the electronics will be removed for the winter (these connectors are particularly vulnerable to winter corrosion)
• Remove the bulbs from your navigation and running lights and spray the sockets with an anti-corrosion lubricant

Quick Do-It-Yourself

Even if you have professionals do everything else, you will need to remove valuables, electronics, linens, PFDs, fire extinguishers, flares, fenders, and other loose items. Sort them all in neatly labeled boxes for easy unpacking in the spring.

While you are there:

• Vacuum cushions and mattress and set them upright to allow airflow during storage
• Scrub the refrigerator and freezer to avoid mold, mildew, and unpleasant odors in the spring
• Set out No Damp Dehumidifiers and an odor control product such as MDG Mold/Odor Control to eliminate mold, mildew, and associated smells
• Oil the hinges and door latches so they will work smoothly next spring
• Lubricate all snaps and zippers, whether the canvas is left on over the winter or not
• Almost Done

After all, the greasy work has been completed and you have gotten everything you should out of the cabin, it is time for one final cleaning. Depending on the condition of the boat, you may opt to call in a detailer to make quick work of this tedious process:

Boat Detailing

• Do a complete wash down of the boat, using specialty cleaners to remove rust stains, tree sap, water runoff, and so forth on fiberglass; these stains can become permanent by spring
• Wax the hull and topsides, or at least any topside that will be exposed during the coming months
• If you notice nicks and wear in the boat paint, get them fixed to keep the paint from disintegrating further
• If you are going to leave your canvas up as a boat cover, protect the Isinglass against damage with a specialty protectant; you should do this on a monthly basis

Check our list of on-site contractors in Seabrook Marina Repair Yard - Contractor List

Here is a checklist for your lines to keep your boat safely moored! Read more...

References:

https://boatplanet.com/the-captains-blog/fall-maintenance-checklist-preparing-your-boat-for-winter

The size and length of a boat's mooring lines are important factors to consider when outfitting a boat. 

How many dock lines do you need?

A properly outfitted boat should have at least six dock lines on hand. Two (each) bow and stern lines and two spring lines. The length of the lines depends upon how and where you moor your boat.

What type and length of lines?

Docking lines, which are used to tie the boat to a dock, need to be long enough to reach from the boat to the dock and still have enough slack to allow for movement caused by tide, wind, and waves. Bow and stern lines should typically be at least 2/3 times the distance between the boat and the dock. Spring lines should be equal to your boat's length.

When it comes to the size of a boat's dock lines, it is important to choose a strong line to withstand the forces it will be subject to. The strength of a line is measured in breaking strength, which is the amount of force required to break the line. 

What types of boat lines to use for your boat

Use only 3-strand twisted or braided nylon (no polypropylene or manila).  Chafe gear – water hose, clear vinyl tubing, sewn-on leather (tape is ineffective).

1. Bowlines: Typically made of nylon or polyester, and sized according to the length of your boat. See table below.

2. Stern lines: Typically made of nylon or polyester, 

3. Spring lines: Typically made of nylon or polyester,

4. Fender line: Typically made of nylon or polypropylene, 

What size should your dock lines be during a storm?

In severe weather conditions, some people choose to use dock lines of a larger diameter, or even “double up” some of the lines. But notice that while making them stronger, this may decrease their cushioning effect, just when your dock and deck hardware need it the most. A better option may be to add additional dock lines secured to previously unused hardware and tie-off points. As always, good seamanship requires good judgment and analysis of every situation. Increased attention to dock line chafing gear is always prudent in severe weather.

MINIMUM MOORING LINE STANDARD

Yacht Size                                                         Primary Line Size                                                               Spring Line Size

(overall length)                                                          (diameter)                                                                           (diameter)

Up to 27 ft                                                                             3/8”                                                                                         3/8”

28 ft to 31 ft                                                                           1/2”                                                                                           1/2”

32 ft to 45 ft                                                                           5/8”                                                                                         1/2”

46 ft to 54 ft                                                                           3/4”                                                                                           3/4”

54 ft to 63 ft                                                                           7/8”                                                                                           7/8”

64 ft to 72 ft                                                                           1”                                                                                           1”

It is important to note that these are just general guidelines and the specific size and type of line may vary depending on the size and type of boat, as well as the intended use of the line. It is always best to consult with a professional or the manufacturer for the appropriate size and type of line for your specific boat.

REFERENCES:

Marina Life: https://www.marinalife.com/articles/dock-lines-smart-boater-marinalife

WestMarine: www.westmarine.com/west-advisor/Dock-Lines

In the University of Virginia School of Engineering laboratory, a series of tests were performed on nylon and polyester line (also known by its DuPont trade name, Dacron®)  - BoatUS: www.boatus.org/findings

Houston, we might have a problem!

We don't really get extremely cold in the Gulf Coast area, but we do have cold snaps. But in 2022 we had the first snow here in the marina since 1989! So maybe we need to be prepared just in case.

Here are some tips to winterize your boat.

Your first step in winterizing should be to make a checklist of all items that need to be accomplished. Check the owner's manual of both your boat and motor for the manufacturer's recommendations on winterization. If you are a new boat owner, perhaps you should employ the assistance of a friend with experience in winterizing or hire a professional to do the job.

Interiors for your boat

The fix here is to vent your boat cover for good airflow to minimize trapped moisture for small boats. But even big boats that are locked up for the winter, more than one boat owner has unzipped his boat in the spring only to find the interior looking like a science project with mold and mildew everywhere.  Mildew sprays are a big help, as are chemical dehumidifiers that pull excess moisture from the air.

• Open all drawers and lockers and clean them thoroughly.
• Turn cushions up on edge so that air is able to circulate around them or, better yet, bring them home to a climate-controlled area.
• Open and clean the refrigerator and freezer.
• To keep your boat dry and mildew-free you might want to install a dehumidifier or use some of the commercially available odor and moisture absorber products such as "No Damp," "Damp Away" or "Sportsman's Mate."

Fuel System and Engines

Water is the enemy when it comes to fuel supply and storage systems on boats. That’s especially true if yours is a gasoline-powered boat with ethanol-blended fuel in the tank. Diesel fuel comes with its own set of challenges. Add in wide ranges of winter temperatures and condensation becomes a problem.

Drain the Gear-Case Lubricant (and recycle it)

Clear, amber-colored lubricant means your gear-case seals are in good shape. Milky and sometimes lumpy oil means the seals need to be replaced. Tip: The time to do this is in the fall when marine mechanics are less busy and sometimes willing to offer special prices for winter work. 

Now is a good time to change fuel filters as well, especially if you have a stand-alone water/fuel separator filter. Check your manufacturer’s recommended service intervals for onboard fuel filters on your inboard and/or outboard engines.

Change the Oil for your Boat

Change engine oil to eliminate moisture and prevent corrosion. If you don't, moisture can cause excessive wear, which can lead to loss of power, poor fuel economy and possible engine failure. Tip: Some mechanics change the oil both in the fall and at spring breakout on the theory that the engine oil needs to be changed at the end of the summer and after suffering the ravages of winter because moisture may again accumulate in the oil.

Fuel Treatment for your Boat

Treat your boat's fuel with a stabilizer. Pennzoil Fuel Stabilizer, PRI-G and Stabil are ideal products for this job. After adding it to the fuel, run the engine for 10 minutes or so to be sure stabilized fuel circulates throughout the engine. If you don't stabilize the fuel, carburetors and fuel injectors can be clogged with varnish deposits that ruin fuel systems. 

Batteries for your Boat

Probably the worst thing you can do to your batteries is leaving them unattended and ignored in your boat all winter long. They should be on a trickle charge during this downtime, and if you don't have a solar charger or a plug at the boatyard and your boat isn't stored in the water the best place for your batteries is at home—either in the garage or basement—hooked up to a trickle charger. And don’t worry; Dr. Diehard says it’s perfectly fine to store today’s batteries on concrete.

Keep in mind that different battery types have different charging needs. For example, a conventional lead-acid battery has a much higher charging voltage tolerance than an absorbed glass matt (AGM) battery. Find out what’s best for your particular battery type and be sure to keep an appropriate trickle charger going on your batteries all winter.

If you need a more comprehensive explanation of battery maintenance needs—for all seasons and conditions—be sure to watch this Basic Boat Battery Check Up and Maintenance video.

Finally

After going through all these systems and processes, are we finally ready to put Mom's Mink to bed for the winter? We're close. Here are a few final winterizing tips to finish the job:

• Give it a scrub from top to bottom, inside and out. Why you may ask? Leaving filth and grime to sit all winter long can cause permanent damage to your boat’s finishes, inside and out.
• Organize and clean stowage compartments, lockers, and other areas that may have gotten dirty over the boating season. Not only will a clean boat greet you come spring, but this will also increase the chances you'll spot items that could cause a mess by leaking or freezing and bursting over the winter. Suntan lotion, bug repellent, or a stray can of soda are just a few of the items that you will regret leaving onboard.
• Don’t forget the bilge or mechanical spaces, either. These areas should be nice and clean as well as free from any standing water, which can freeze over the winter and cause damage in tight areas.
• Take off any gear that will fare better shoreside. Fishing rods and reels, safety equipment, electronics that are removable, clothing, and other gear will live a longer life if it isn’t exposed to the freeze-thaw cycle.

CALL US FOR A HAUL OUT!  REPAIR YARD:  281-474-2588

References:

Family Handy Man

Boats.com

USBoats.com

Boating Magazine

Creating a hurricane plan is an important step in protecting your home and family during hurricane season. Hurricanes can be devastating, with strong winds, heavy rain, and storm surges that can cause significant damage. A well-designed hurricane plan can help you prepare for these events and minimize the impact on your life. Here are some tips on how to create a hurricane plan.

Determine your risk can be done by researching the history of hurricanes in your area and consulting with local emergency management officials.

This information will help you understand the potential impact of a hurricane on your home and community. Here is information from NOAA about hurricane patterns - August 2023.

Due to current ocean and atmospheric conditions, such as record-warm sea surface temperatures, NOAA’s Climate Prediction Center—a division of the National Weather Service—has increased their prediction for the ongoing 2023 Atlantic hurricane season to an “above normal” level of activity from a “near normal” level with their most recent update. 

The outlook now includes a 70% chance of 14-21 named storms, of which 6-11 could become hurricanes, and 2-5 could become major hurricanes. The updated outlook also states that current conditions are likely to counterbalance the usually limiting atmospheric conditions associated with the ongoing El Niño event. 

Although cyclone formation can occur any time of the year, the Atlantic Hurricane Season officially runs from June 1 through November 30, when most tropical cyclones tend to form in the Atlantic. 

Ideas for your Emergency Hurricane Plan:

1. Create an Emergency Kit: As part of your hurricane plan, create an emergency kit. This should include items such as food, water, first aid supplies, medications, flashlights, batteries, and a radio. Keep your emergency kit in a secure and easily accessible location.

2. Develop an Evacuation Plan: If you live in an area that is at high risk for hurricanes, develop an evacuation plan. Identify evacuation routes, and make arrangements for transportation and lodging. Discuss your plan with your family, and make sure everyone understands what they need to do in the event of an evacuation.

3. Secure Your Home: Before a hurricane, secure your home by boarding up windows and doors, and securing loose objects outside. If you have a garage, park your car inside and disconnect the garage door opener to prevent damage from high winds. It is also a good idea to have your roof inspected and repaired if necessary.

4. Protect Important Documents: Protect important documents, such as insurance policies, identification, and financial records, by storing them in a secure and waterproof location. Consider making digital copies of important documents and storing them in a secure online location.

5. Keep Your Insurance Up to Date: Make sure your insurance coverage is up to date and covers damage from hurricanes. Review your policy to ensure that it provides adequate coverage for your home and belongings.

6. Stay Informed: Stay informed about the latest weather conditions by monitoring local news and weather reports. Follow the instructions of local authorities, and be prepared to evacuate if necessary.

7. Plan for Power Outages: Power outages are common during hurricanes, so it is important to plan for them. Have backup generators or alternative sources of power available, and stock up on batteries and flashlights.

8. Make Plans for Pets: If you have pets, make plans for their care during a hurricane. Identify pet-friendly shelters and hotels, and make arrangements for their transportation and care.

9. Practice Your Plan: Once you have created your hurricane plan, practice it with your family. This will help everyone understand what they need to do in the event of a hurricane, and will ensure that everyone is prepared.

Creating a hurricane plan is an important step in protecting your home and family during hurricane season. By following these tips, you can create a comprehensive hurricane plan that will help you prepare for and respond to hurricanes in your area. Remember to stay informed and be prepared, and always put safety first.

Here are some great links to more information:

HOW TO STAY PLUGGED IN DURING A POWER OUTAGES

ESSENTIAL HURRICANE TIPS FOR HURRICANE SEASON 2023

14 TIPS TO PROTECT YOUR BOAT DURING HURRICANE SEASON IN 2023

Evacuation route maps from the Texas coast, including from Beaumont, Corpus Christi, Houston, Pharr and Yoakum, are available.

Hurricane Preparedness in Seabrook Marina
 And check out More Tips how to prepare for a hurricane at the bottom of the page.

USEFUL LINKS

Town of Seabrook Hurricane Preparedness Plan

Town of Seabrook Evacuation Plan

Code Red - Local Response Team Notification

University of Florida IFAS publication "Hurricane Preparedness for Boat Owners"

A Boater's Guide to Preparing Boats and Marinas for Hurricanes by BoatUS

Preparing for Hurricane Severe Weather Checklist for Boaters issued by flseagrant.org

Download your own list -  '5 Essential Hurricane Tips'

What safety equipment do you need for powerboats between 26 and 40 feet?

1. Title and Registration Numbers

Title and registration numbers are required.

2. Personal Flotation Devices

One US Coast Guard approved wearable device is required for each person on board. One US Coast Guard approved throwable device (Type IV) is required on board and readily accessible. Inflatable PFDs are authorized only when used according to the instructions on US Coast Guard approval labels.

Each wearable PFD should be readily accessible, in serviceable condition, and of the appropriate size for the intended user. Wearable devices should also be approved for the activity taking place and used according to the instructions on its label. Learn more about PFD fit and types.

3. Fire Extinguishers

Either of the following meets the fire extinguisher requirement:

• 2 US Coast Guard-approved type B-1 marine-grade fire extinguishers, OR
• 1 US Coast Guard-approved type B-2 marine-grade fire extinguisher

If a vessel has a fixed fire extinguishing system, that will affect the number and type of fire extinguishers required.

The fire extinguisher must:

• Be readily accessible.
• Be in condition for immediate and effective use at all times.

4. Visual Distress Signals

Visual distress signals that are US Coast Guard-approved for day and night use are required if operating in coastal waters of the state. Visual distress signals must be readily accessible, in working condition, and unexpired (if expiration date is shown).

5. Sound-Producing Device

One whistle, horn or other sound-producing device is required. The device must be capable of producing an efficient sound that can signal intentions and position in periods of reduced visibility.

6. Lights

US Coast Guard-approved red and green side lights and a white all-around light are required when not at dock. White lights shall be visible at a distance of at least two (2) miles. Colored lights shall be visible at a distance of at least one (1) mile. "Visible" when applied to lights means visible on dark nights with clear atmosphere.

The required navigation lights must be equipped as shown in Figure 1 or Figure 2.

US Coast Guard-approved lights must be:

• serviceable,
• displayed from sunset to sunrise in all weather,
• displayed during restricted visibility, and
• visible all around the horizon.

Any other lights on the vessel:

• must not be exhibited in a way that may be mistaken for navigation lights;
• must not impair the visibility or distinctive characteristics of navigation lights; and
• must not interfere with the keeping of a proper lookout.

7. Ventilation

Ventilation systems are required of all vessels using liquid fuel that is volatile. Vessels that are of "open construction" are exempt. More information about ventilation requirements can be found in the Water Safety Act booklet.

8. Backfire Flame Arrestor

Backfire flame arrestors are required for gasoline engines installed in a vessel after April 25, 1940. Outboard motors are an exception to this requirement.

An acceptable means of backfire flame control must be suitably attached to the air intake with a flame tight connection. The device must be US Coast Guard-approved or comply with SAE J-1928 or UL 1111 standards and be marked accordingly.

9. Exhaust Water Manifold

A motorboat must have an exhaust water manifold or a factory-type muffler installed on the engine.

10. Mirrors

A rearview mirror no less than four inches in width and height is required when towing a person.

A mirror is not required when towing a person if an observer is present who is:

• on board the motorboat,
• not the operator of the motorboat,
• 13 years of age or older, and
• acting in the capacity of an observer.

MORE INFORMATION:

POWERBOATS

 11 Required Safety Equipment For Powerboats 40 Feet but Less Than 65 Feet In Length

10 Required Safety Equipment For Powerboats 26 Feet but Less Than 40 Feet In Length

SAILBOATS

4 Required Safety EquipmentSailboats 26 Feet but Less Than 40 Feet In Length

4 Required Safety Equipment For Sailboats 40 Feet but Less Than 65 Feet In Length

Reference:

Powerboats 26 Feet but Less Than 40 Feet In Length: Required Safety Equipment

What safety equipment do you need for your sailboat?

1. Title and Registration Numbers

Title and registration numbers are required.

2. Personal Flotation Devices

One US Coast Guard approved wearable device is required for each person on board. One US Coast Guard approved throwable device (Type IV) is required on board and readily accessible. Inflatable PFDs are authorized only when used according to the instructions on US Coast Guard approval labels.

Each wearable PFD should be readily accessible, in serviceable condition, and of the appropriate size for the intended user. Wearable devices should also be approved for the activity taking place and used according to the instructions on its label. Learn more about PFD fit and types.

3. Visual Distress Signals

Visual distress signals that are US Coast Guard-approved for day and night use are required if operating in coastal waters of the state. Visual distress signals must be readily accessible, in working condition, and unexpired (if expiration date is shown).

4. Lights

US Coast Guard-approved red and green side lights and a white stern light are required when not at dock.

Power-driven sailboats shall exhibit navigation lights as shown in Figure 1.

Manually-driven sailboats may combine the required navigation lights in one lantern. The lantern must be carried at or near the top of the mast where it can best be seen and exhibited while the vessel is underway. Manually-driven vessels include those that are paddled, poled, oared, or windblown.

US Coast Guard-approved lights must be:

• serviceable,
• displayed from sunset to sunrise in all weather,
• displayed during restricted visibility, and
• visible all around the horizon.

Any other lights on the vessel:

• must not be exhibited in a way that may be mistaken for navigation lights;
• must not impair the visibility or distinctive characteristics of navigation lights; and
• must not interfere with the keeping of a proper lookout.

MORE INFORMATION:

POWERBOATS

 11 Required Safety Equipment For Powerboats 40 Feet but Less Than 65 Feet In Length

10 Required Safety Equipment For Powerboats 26 Feet but Less Than 40 Feet In Length

SAILBOATS

4 Required Safety EquipmentSailboats 26 Feet but Less Than 40 Feet In Length

4 Required Safety Equipment For Sailboats 40 Feet but Less Than 65 Feet In Length

References:

Sailboats 40 Feet but Less Than 65 Feet In Length: Required Safety Equipment

Regular and consistent boat maintenance is the key to owning a boat that is safe and reliable, has a minimum of unexpected repair bills, looks good and retains its resale value. 

Routine inspections and maintenance are especially true of mechanical systems and anything that may allow water to penetrate the structure of the vessel, such as leaky deck fittings or thru-hulls.  

Whether a seacock valve is bronze or Marelon, maintenance is still required.  Forcing a sticking valve has been known to break off handles or loosen the seal around the thru-hull.

It is also important to inspect the running gear which includes the shafts, struts, rudders, propellers and cutlass bearings. A worn or damaged cutlass bearing is often a symptom of other problems in your running gear, for example, a bent shaft, an unbalanced propeller, engine misalignment or strut alignment.

O.J.’s Marine has a professional team of mechanics that are trained to check for damage and to make recommendations for maintenance and/ or repairs.  Additionally, these recommendations could save you money and essentially save your boat from further damage. 

Let O.J.’S Marine be a part of your routine maintenance to keep you on the water in a safe and reliable vessel.  Give us a call when you schedule your next haul-out or bottom job. 

PO Box 454, Seabrook, TX  77586

281-474-5186 | 281-474-5600 fax

ojsmarine@aol.com | www.ojsmarineinc.com

1. Have the right life jackets on your boat.

Your life jacket is the most important piece of safety equipment on your boat. Before you get out on the water, you should make sure that each passenger has a life jacket that fits them well and is comfortable to wear. A good life jacket should:

• float: it sounds obvious, but this is important; a life jacket can't do its job unless it keeps you afloat

• be able to quickly put on: in an emergency, you might be without a lot of time or energy; practice getting your life jacket on quickly so you're prepared for an emergency

• fit around your chest properly: if your life jacket doesn't fit, it's doing nothing for you; don't try to improvise with a too-big or too-small one -- buy one that fits well

• be approved by the Coast Guard: this one's also pretty self-explanatory; an unapproved life jacket is just not going to cut it

Babies and small children should always wear their life jackets at all times when they are aboard your boat. Older children who are strong swimmers might only need them when the boat is moving or in rough water, but they still need them then!

2. Visual distress signals on board

Always have the right number of visual distress signals on board. These are used to attract attention if you're in trouble and need rescuing. If your boat is longer than 16 feet, you're required to carry them by law.

Small boats need a minimum of three-day and three-night signals, while yachts and larger boats need six-day and six-night signals—so always be sure to check how many you have before setting sail!

3. Floating aids

It's important for you to make sure that your boat is well equipped with the proper safety equipment. This will include devices such as life jackets, PFDs, and other flotation devices. There are many different types of flotation aids available for boats. These vary in size, shape, and purpose. They are used for various activities on boats including launching and docking as well as boating in general when you're out on the water.

4. Fuel in boat

• Ensure that your boat is fueled and full of gas.

• Make sure your oil levels are topped off properly.

• Check that the battery is charged and in good working order.

• Ensure all cables and wires are connected, if applicable.

5. Use the engine when leaving from the dock if you are on a sailboat.

It is necessary to use your engine when leaving from the dock especially if you are sailing, but make sure it is not in gear. Ensure to start the motor and then place it in gear before pulling away.

6. Navigation Lights

You should know that boat lights are required by law. For vessels operating between sunset and sunrise, navigation lights are required as they help other boats see your boat on the water. On top of that, lights must be clearly visible from 2 miles away.

Finally, navigation lights are also required when traveling in restricted visibility (fog or heavy rain). This means you need to turn on your navigation lights if you can’t see 2 miles ahead of you because of fog or heavy rain.

As for where navigation lights should be installed, here is what is required:

• Bow Navigation Light: One at the bow (front) of the boat used to signal the direction in which your boat is moving. For instance, if your boat is moving forward while facing east, it will always have a red light at its bow and a green light at its stern.

• Stern Navigation Light: One at the stern (back) of the ship used to signal the direction in which your ship's moving

• Masthead Navigation Lights: Installed on top of any high structure along with an anchor light

7. Check the weather report

You might love to play in the sun. In fact, you might be so eager to get out on your boat that you don't even think about checking the weather forecast before heading out.

Just because it's sunny and clear when you leave, doesn't mean it will stay that way throughout your journey. Check the forecast before leaving, and then check it again on your way back—the weather can change quickly. Have a weather radio on board in case of changing weather, or download a weather app onto your phone and keep it handy while boating.

8. Listen and observe what's happening around you

Listen and observe what's happening around you.

If you're launching your boat, listen to what the boaters already there are saying. Did they have any problems getting in? Did they see anything unusual? If you hear someone saying, "Whoa! That was close," that might be a warning that there's something to watch out for while you pull away from the dock.

While moving your boat forward, keep an eye on the area right up ahead of your boat. Watch for people swimming or fishing off their boats and avoid them as necessary. Keep an eye on other boats coming up behind you and make sure you leave enough room for them to pass safely. Your primary responsibility is making sure no one else gets hurt when operating your boat (especially swimmers), so pay attention to others around you at all times.

9. Know how to work the radio and listen to forecasts

Knowing how to work, and when to use a radio is vital. Making sure you can communicate in an emergency could mean the difference between life and death, or at the very least make your time on the water more enjoyable.

It's vital that you research local marine radio frequencies before you set out on a trip. You need to know what channel is used for emergency broadcasts as well as general chat if you're traveling in busy waters or near built up areas.

You also need to know how radios work, which buttons to press etc so that when you really need to communicate properly and clearly with others using a radio then it shouldn't be too much of an issue.

Make sure that everyone who might be needed to use your marine radio knows exactly how it works prior to hitting the water.

10. Fully charged fire extinguishers

The law requires that you have fully charged fire extinguishers on board your boat: two for boats longer than 26 feet and one for boats less than 26 feet. There are other requirements, such as the size and type of extinguishers required, but all boats need at least one currently charged unit.

Get familiar with the location and operation of your fire extinguisher. Read the operating instructions on the cylinder or tag, so you know how to use it if needed. The last thing you want is to have a fire erupt and not know how to operate the onboard equipment designed to fight fires.

If you have a CO2 system, make sure your bottle is full by checking its gauge regularly. Also check the dates stamped on your extinguishers; they usually require replacement every 10 years or so, even if they seem "full." If it's been more than five years since you've replaced an extinguisher, consider replacing it now—even if it seems like new—because corrosion can damage them from inside.

11. Have the correct safety and boat documents on board

Make sure you have the following safety and boat documents on board:

• Boat registration - You must have your vessel's registration available for inspection. The registration needs to be current, and it must include the HIN (hull identification number).

• Insurance documents - You'll need proof of insurance. In some states, this is required by law. If you're traveling out of state waters, it may be required in that state's jurisdiction as well.

• Safety checklist - Have this handy to make sure you haven't forgotten anything essential.

• Charts - It's a good idea to have nautical charts for your route as well as tide and current tables if applicable.

• Navigation rules - Make sure everyone on board is aware of navigation rules, specifically those related to right-of-way and buoyage systems.

• Emergency procedures - Make sure everyone knows what to do in case of an emergency or if someone falls overboard

12. Make sure your anchor works

Before you use your boat, ensure that the anchor is the right size for your boat and in good condition. It should be securely stored in an appropriate place (not on deck where it could be stepped on or where it could fall off). In addition to the anchor being in good condition, make sure the rope is also in good condition and stored properly. The rope should be long enough for the depth of water where you will be boating.

13. Have enough lines on board for docking

Looking back on our sailing experience, we have some suggestions for beginners who are thinking of showing up in a boat and actually crossing the water.

Get a professional captain. Even if you've never used a motorized vessel, you would be wise to enlist one of those experienced sailors who have crossed oceans to get any inland adventure under your belt. The right captain can make all the difference in whether or not you manage to make it across that big lake, meet the right people at your destination, and perhaps even enjoy some kind of memorable vacation on dry land.

Have enough lines on board. If your vessel is less than 20 feet long, do not cross an ocean with less than 30 pounds of line in tow. While 30 pounds might sound like a lot when it comes to rigging material (which tends to be heavy), it is nothing compared to how quickly those lines can snap—and that doesn't take into account the stresses involved with trimming sails and maneuvering around rocks (the kind that don't have names). It's better to be safe than sorry here: Have more lines than you think you'll need and leave yourself plenty of slack so that if something goes wrong, there is still enough line left over for recovery purposes. Consider installing fenders as well: The kind that sit along the side of a boat are great for ensuring swift but steady progress through choppy waters or when docking in frigid temps or during foul weathers!

14. These safety tips will help keep you safe on the water.

• Make a Plan - Every time you head out on the water, make sure to plan your trip.

• Safety Equipment - Carry all required safety equipment with you and make sure everyone onboard knows how and when to use it. Also be sure to check that all safety equipment is in good working order before heading out.

• In Case of Emergency - If an accident occurs or someone goes overboard, know what procedures to take immediately and how to best handle the situation.

• Pre-Trip Discussion - Before hitting the water, have a conversation with all passengers about where you'll be going and what will be happening during the trip; review any concerns or questions they may have so everyone can stay aware of their surroundings and stay safe while on the water.

• Know Your Boat - Get familiar with your boat's capabilities, limitations, and features so you know how it performs in different circumstances.

• Fuel Up! - Make sure you always fill up your tank before hitting the water so you don't run out of fuel on a trip or return home empty-handed.

• Don't Drink & Drive - One of the most important rules for boating is never drinking alcohol while operating a boat. Being impaired could cause accidents and seriously endanger yourself as well as other boaters around you, whether they are on land or water.